When asked who will get his vote in Morocco's parliamentary elections next month, 70-year-old Mohamed Mahbou looks up from his game of cards and anger flashes in his eyes.
"In my life I voted many times. I no longer have confidence in any of the parties," he said.
Mahbou grew up in the labyrinthine medina of Fez where he had a small business selling fritters. When buildings in his neighbourhood began to crumble, the council rehoused the inhabitants in a distant suburb.
He says he now earns about 3-1/2 dirhams per day hawking cigarettes in the neighbourhood of Hay A'ttaj, where poverty and unemployment are rife and mounds of rubbish lie uncollected in open spaces.
Embittered by unfulfilled promises, Mahbou has decided to vote in September 7 parliamentary elections for a party that has avoided grand promises -- the moderate Islamist Justice and Development Party (PJD).
"At least they are frank and realistic," he says. "They've made no promises but the only person who defends our cause, the miserable life we are leading, is (PJD deputy Lahcen) Daoudi."
Many members of the secular-minded elite that has ruled Morocco since independence hail from Fez, but the former imperial city has seen a surge in support for the PJD in the decade since the party was formed.
The PJD became the third biggest party and the main opposition in the Rabat parliament in 2002 and has built political capital by rounding on corruption and calling for more morality in public life.
It has also voiced strong support for the monarchy and condemned religious extremism.
"RESPONSIBILITY BEFORE GOD"
Several PJD politicians hail from the same political class that has ruled the country for half a century and its policies seem to differ little in substance from those of its rivals.
But many ordinary Moroccans are hoping its religious grounding means that, if elected, PJD officials would strive harder against corruption than their predecessors.
"I will put my faith in this party and if it disappoints the people once again, may it assume its responsibility before God," said Abdulkrim, a 32-year-old clothing and perfume seller.
"All the political parties have plundered Morocco's riches," says Kenza Niyari, 52, a housewife wearing a headscarf and loose djellaba robe.
"I have no confidence in any party but if there's one that commits to enforcing true Islam, it'll get my vote because we have failed to follow Islam properly and ended up backward."
The PJD has said it would need to show quick results to avoid alienating its supporters, but says ambitious promises would be pointless before it knows how powerful a government under its command will be.
Morocco's electoral system discourages large majorities by political parties, forcing political groups to form coalitions after the elections. Even if a party wins the majority a lot still hangs on negotiations with the palace, where the king holds the ultimate veto.
Voters seem unconcerned by the PJD's vagueness. Indeed it may even be a strength as it allows the party to attract people with varied religious and political convictions.
SCEPTICISM
Jaouad Sabbani, a 36-year-old Fez schoolteacher, says no religious conversion was behind his decision to vote PJD.
"When the Socialists entered government, they abandoned their principles. The PJD's principles are moderate, as those of all Moroccans should be."
Plumber Hamid began to pray as soon as he joined the party and has stopped drinking and smoking.
"It's not because they imposed this on me. It just embarrassed me when I saw everyone praying at party meetings. I told myself that I too was a Muslim and should follow them."
The PJD's decision to avoid calling for deep constitutional reform that might reduce the power of the monarchy has left some voters sceptical.
"I will vote for no one," said 22-year-old student Abderrahman. "They may chant various slogans but the goal is the same -- to achieve power. If the Islamists get there, they'll find it impossible to do much."
An elderly man drinking tea in front of his shop, who identified himself as El Haj, showed his apathy toward party politicians but not the monarchy.
"If the king stands in the elections, I will vote for him," he said.
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